The Exumas are relaxed and easygoing, but a bit of planning helps you make the most of your time across the islands. Distances, limited availability, and weather can all shape your experience.
Great Exuma Is Not the Same as the Exuma Cays
Great Exuma has roads, rental cars, grocery stores, and resorts like Sandals. The Exuma Cays, including Staniel Cay, Norman’s Cay, and Compass Cay, have no roads beyond small settlements. Access between them is by boat only. Do not rent a car expecting to drive to the swimming pigs.
Two Airports, Two Different Trip Styles
Exuma International (GGT) on Great Exuma is for mainland explorers, resort stays, and day trips by boat. Staniel Cay (TYM) is for travelers staying in the central cays, waking up steps from Thunderball Grotto and Pig Beach. Choose based on where you sleep, not where you want to visit.
The Swimming Pigs Require a Boat
Big Major Cay is uninhabited. No bridge connects it to anything. You cannot drive to the pigs. You cannot walk to the pigs. You need a boat tour from Great Exuma or a water taxi from Staniel Cay. This is not a spontaneous stop, it is a planned excursion.
Thunderball Grotto Has Tide Windows
The famous James Bond cave is only accessible at low to mid tide. At high tide, the main entrance is underwater. Check tide charts before booking your boat tour or you may arrive to find nothing but waves hitting rock.
Compass Cay Nurse Sharks Are Fed by Hand
The marina at Compass Cay charges an entry fee. The nurse sharks are accustomed to humans and are safe to interact with if you follow instructions. Do not harass them. Do not feed them unless staff offers. They are wild animals, not pets.
The Sandbars Appear at Low Tide
Pipe Creek and other sandbars emerge from turquoise water only when the tide drops. At high tide, they disappear completely. Your boat captain will time excursions around tides. If you rent your own boat, learn to read a tide chart first.
Rental Cars Exist Only on Great Exuma
Staniel Cay and other cays have no rental car agencies. Transportation is by golf cart at best, walking at worst. If your accommodation is on Great Exuma, rent a car at GGT. If your accommodation is on Staniel Cay, do not rent a car.
Cell Service Fades Quickly
Great Exuma has reliable service near George Town. Staniel Cay has spotty service. Once you head to Compass Cay, Pipe Creek, or the Land and Sea Park, expect nothing. Download offline maps and all confirmations before leaving the mainland.
Temperatures by Season
– December to April: 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C). Dry season. Best boating weather. Peak crowds.
– May to June: 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C). Warmer. Excellent water clarity. Fewer boats.
– July to October: 80°F to 88°F (27°C to 31°C). Hurricane season. Still beautiful but risky.
What to Pack Specifically for the Exumas
Reef-safe sunscreen (the water is too clear for chemicals), polarized sunglasses (essential for spotting sandbars and shallow reef), a dry bag (every boat trip gets you wet), water shoes (rocky entries at grottos), and a rash guard for all-day sun exposure.
No Fuel on Outer Cays
Staniel Cay has fuel at the marina. Compass Cay does not. Norman’s Cay does not. If you rent a boat from Staniel Cay, top up before heading south or north. Running out of fuel between uninhabited cays is not a good situation.
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park Is a No-Fishing Zone
This protected area from Shroud Cay to Cambridge Cay has strict rules: no fishing, no conch, no lobster. You can snorkel, hike, and beachcomb. Rangers patrol. Fines are real. Know the boundaries before you drop a line.
George Town Is the Supply Hub
Stock up on groceries, gas, and supplies in George Town before heading to remote parts of Great Exuma or before your flight to Staniel Cay. Options thin out quickly once you leave the capital.
Sundays Are Quiet on Great Exuma
Restaurants and grocery stores reduce hours or close. On the cays, Sundays are even quieter. Some water taxi services may not run. Plan excursions for Saturday. Save Sunday for beach lounging.
Book Excursions in Advance
Pig Beach tours, Thunderball Grotto trips, and snorkel excursions fill up during peak season (December to April). Do not assume you can walk off the plane and book a boat for the next morning. Reserve before you arrive.
How Long to Stay
Four to five days on Great Exuma allows for mainland exploration and one or two boat excursions. A week on Staniel Cay lets you explore multiple cays at a relaxed pace. Trying to see both Great Exuma and the cays in under 5 days is rushed and unsatisfying.